Volume , Issue

Improvised Tourniquet

  • Indications: limb arterial hemorrhage
  • Materials: Nut tool, 2 slings (the wider the better)
  • Girth hitch the sling around the affected limb and tie off with the nut tool in the midde of the knotTry to keep both strands as close together as possible.
  • Twist the nut tool until the bleeding stops, then secure with second sling.

Improvised Pelvic Binder

  • Indication: unstable pelvis, suspected internal pelvic bleeding
  • Materials: harness
  • Move the harness down to the level of the greater trochanters and cinch tight. The D-loops should keep the tension tight

Improvised Volar Splint

  • Indications: suspected distal radius/ulna fractures, metacarpals 2-5 injury, wrist injuries
  • Materials: climbing shoe, tape
  • Cup the heel of the shoe with the hand, allowing for slight volar tilt. For less aggressive shoes, this is best done on the fabric part. For more aggressive shoes, this is best done on the rubber base. Secure with tape. Make sure distal neurovascular function is intact.

Improvised Sugar Tong Splint

  • Indications: distal ulna or raduis fractures, or both-bone fractures
  • Materials: climbing shoes (2), tape
  • Place the wrist between the rubber soles of 2 shoes (flatter is better).Secure with tape. Make sure distal neurovascular function is intact.

Note: all photos are simulated and do not show actual pathology. 

Disclaimer: These are not proven effective techniques, however, may be considered if better alternatives are not available and the patient is at risk of losing life or limb and do not cause further harm. Additionally, rescuers should carefully consider which equipment to use and avoid sacrificing technical equipment that will be necessary for potential evacuation or safety or patient or rescuers.

I hope this stimulates your creativity of how the rest of your gear/rack could be potentially useful if someone gets injured while climbing.


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